Showing posts with label Tutorial. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tutorial. Show all posts

July 16, 2012

Photoshop Tutorial: Lightsaber FX

1) Download this file to your Desktop. Open the zip file and drag the two lightsaber images to your desktop. Open both of them through Photoshop. Choose one to work with, then close the other image.

2) Now, working with the lightsaber model of your choice, go to Image > Canvas Size. Click on the left square from the image grid, and increase the width to 2000 pixels. Click OK.

Make a new layer and then drag that layer underneath your original light saber "layer 0". Click on Layer 1, paint this new background layer a dark grey color, using the Piant Bucket Tool.

Zoom out a bit. Make a new layer (place this layer on top of all others) and using the square marque tool select a thin rectangular shape (make sure your Feather is set to zero first), click and drag to make a long rectangular selection:

To make the tip of the lightsabre a rounded edge, zoom in on the top, choose the eliptical marquee tool (make sure your Feather is set to zero in the top Options bar), hold down SHIFT, and click and drag to make a rounded top. It may take a few tries to get it right, just Edit > Undo (Ctrl+z), and try again. Then zoom back out.

3) Now go to Edit > Fill... choose White (100%), click OK.

Now right click on the top layer and choose Blending Options.

4) Now click on Outter Glow and choose these numbers -- Blend Mode: Normal, Opacity: 75%, Spread: 20%, Size: 80px, Range 75%

5) Then click on Inner Glow and choose these numbers -- Blend Mode: Normal, Opacity: 75%, Spread: 5%, Size: 15px, Range 50%

Click OK.

You can go back by double clicking on the FX in the layer if you want to make adjustments.

Now zoom in on the handle, reduce the opacity of the layer to 50%, and choose the Eraser tool, change the eraser to a hard edge and trim the light to match the edge of the handle.

6) Place the opacity back to 100%.

Go to Filter > Blur > Blur.

Then do it again...

Go to Filter > Blur > Blur.

This will take the hard edge off of the light shape.

Holding down the Shift key, click on Layer 2 and Layer 1, right click on one of the layers and choose Merge Layers.

Zoom out and observe you're newly constructed lightsabre!

It's that easy!
Now you can have countless hours of fun inserting your lightsaber into the hands of you, your friends, or animals!!!

If you want to learn about how to animate this effect in Photoshop, check out this tutorial.

June 30, 2012

Photoshop Tutorial: Selective & Replacement Colors

In this tutorial, I'll show you how to convert your photograph to a black and white image and then selectively keeping certain parts of it colorized, in addition, we'll do a bit of optional color modifications.

First of all, find a photo, from the internet (or one of your own).

Open it in Photoshop and make sure you have your Adjustments and Layers tabs visible and handy.

Now duplicate your main layer by dragging it onto to the paper icon.

Then make the bottom layer invisible by click on the 'eye' icon.

Then click on the Adjustment Layer button.

Choose 'Hue/Saturation'.

You'll notice you have a new weird looking layer and your Adjustments panel has changed.

Now comes the fun stuff.

- Drag back the Saturation level to turn your photo into a black & white image.

- Choose black for your foreground color.

- Choose the Brush tool.

- Make sure you have the built-in Mask window selected.

- Make sure you have a hard edge brush, remember; you can

change the size with the bracket keys [ ] at any time.

- Start painting in the areas you want to have the colors come through.

Paint it whatever parts you want, once you're done, that's it!

As a little bonus...

Simply select your 'copy' layer.

Go to Image > Adjustments > Hue/Saturation.

Click on the Colorize switch.

Play around with the two top levels until you get the color you want.

Click OK, and you've successfully isolated and altered color to the
black and white image.

More samples:

Another method...
This time, we'll manipulate this photo to change the tint of a certain area of the image.
You can use the image below (right click on it to save it to your Desktop), or use one of your own photos or find one from the internet.

Open the image that you will use for the change of color.

Take a soft brush and adjust the diameter according to the size of your image.

The larger the image resolution the bigger the brush you need to make.

Press the "Q" key to enter in quick mask mode. Mark all the hair area, if you have problems and you go in some wrong areas, just use the eraser to correct. Adjust Brush size with the [ ] keys.

Once you're done - Press again "Q" to leave the quick mask mode.

Now we have a selection around the hair, but we need is the selection in the hair, so go up to the menu to invert the selection: Select > Inverse.

Now it is necessary to dye the area of the selection. To do this, make a New Fill Layer: Layer > New Fill Layer > Solid Color. The basic properties of the new fill layer will appear - change the mode to Soft Light. Click Ok.

Then use the color picker to select the hair color. Try a few different kinds to see which one you like best.

Cha-Bang! You're Done!

Here's some finished samples:

April 16, 2012

Custom Organic Brushes

Ok, here's a quick tutorial on building custom organic brushes.

All files have been posted at actual size in case you wish to download them for scale comparison with what you do at home.

The Source

First off, you'll need a good organic greycale source image. I'll usually start off by scanning something in, or just making compicated selections and painting into them, or search on Google Image. For the purposes of this example I just downloaded a crumpled paper image off the net.

You want the image fairly big -  After you've done your Google Image search click the 'Large' option on the left side to refine the search. You can scale brushes down easily, but they begin to lose clarity when you scale them up, so I like to keep my brushes of this type in the 500-1000 pixel diameter range. Anything over 2000 and the Brush won't get made.

Notice the very high contrast. This is essential for a good looking brush, as you can always lower the brush's contrast behavior, but never increase it. So, start at the highest contrast possible, or you may come to regret it later.

The Shape
I used a lasso with a good feather on it to carve away at the source image until I was happy with the shape. I will often use the brush tool with a lot of feather at this point as well, to get the look I want. Try to keep it more or less symmetrical in your early brushes, until you have a good understanding of the potential controls. Be sure not to leave any " orphan points" that stand out too much, as you will begin to recognize them as a pattern in a brush's sweep, and ruin the natural effect.

Also, make sure that the area surrounding your final brush shape is 100% white. This is essential, because now we are going to select an area around your brush shape and "define" it. Any grey information would be saved into the brush, and the edges of your selection would show up as a noticeable ghosted line.

That said, make your selection, and in the main PS program edit menu, choose define brush

Creating the Brush Controls

Once your brush is defined, you need to fine tune the way it will function in order to randomize it and make is seem natural, seamless, and unpatterned.


As you can see in the above illustration, when first defined, a brush looks fairly unnatural.


The first thing I usually do is increase the spacing until I am happy with the density.


Then I will add some size and angle jitter to begin randomizing it's behavior, and adjust the minimum diameter to an amount appropriate for the type of brush I am building. In this case, I want to maintain the crinkly look and feel, so I set it quite high.


Next I added a bit of scattering, to mix things up a bit. This is a good touch when you plan to use a brush for coverage, as it will prevent the brush from leaving a definite path as you move it back and forth across the page. If you space your strokes carefully, you can usually use a brush like this without any visible trails.


Now after I adjusted the spacing a bit more, I saved the brush by clicking the "new" icon indicated by the cursor. You will end up with two brushes using this method. Your working one, and this final one. I like to have both in case I want to go back and tweak without affecting my newer "master" brush.


Here is the brush I built at home for a freelance gig. The top one is built up sweeps at increasing opacity settings. The bottom row is just the brush passed twice, in horizontal strokes.

And of course, finding different high contrast grayscale textures will create various FX brushes.